The Berlaymont - Living in the shadow of a bureaucratic behemoth

I recently moved to Rue Joseph II in the heart of the Schuman area. When I leave my flat each morning and head to Schuman metro I pass under the enormous Berlaymont, aka The European Commission.

The building is an immense three-pronged structure that dominates the skyline in these parts. It's a must-see on the Brussels Open-Top bus tour. The story of how it was built rather encapsulates the spirit of the EU. They spent ages trying to find a site, and then when they did a lot of people objected to it. The EU listened carefully to these objections and then built the thing anyway. After many more months than anticipated it was finished, and they were able to look with pride on a mammoth complex with a bland façade. Again, rather like the EU itself.

Passing by the main entrance to go the metro is always entertaining. There are usually a few tourists taking pictures or filming. "And look, this is me in front of the headquarters of the EU's legislative branch." "Wow, tell me more." Around them there's a smattering of eurocrats in suits chatting in any number of languages. News crews like to broadcast with the building in the background. Beside the escalator there is a woman who sits on a stool playing a harmonica with one hand and shaking a cupful of change with the other. It acts as her percussion. At the bottom of the escalator there's a guy playing the clarinet.

Being such an important EU building means it's a magnet for those wishing to protest against it. The other day I came out the metro and was asked by a young man if I was against vivisection. Further on there was a small group waving pictures and chanting loudly. "Er, it depends," I said. He pointed at the graphic images on the pamphlet - a dog with a shaved scalp, a cat missing an eye, a rabbit with no ears. He went on to say that without legislation it may never end, and before we know it we could have a '28 Days Later' scenario on our hands. "Actually, I wouldn't mind a small-scale apocalypse. Frankly I think we could do with reducing the population. And in something like that I'd be fine. I'd get away." He was not amused.

This group of anti-vivisectionists were small change compared to the dairy farmers who created a small reservoir of milk in front of the Berlaymont recently. I didn't stop to find out what all the commotion was about, but I presume they were protesting against the small number of breakfast cereals available in most Belgian supermarkets. I mean, what does one have to do to get some Weetabix around here? Breakfast for Belgians can be summed in two words: bread and nutella. So well done, dairy farmers. Handing out free milk is a good way to start changing old habits.

What I like most about passing under the Berlaymont each day is just that - I can pass right under it, next to it and even walk right inside if I want. In terms of numbers of eurocrats, this huge building is number one, and in terms of significance and importance it's probably only second to the Parliament building in Place de Luxembourg. And yet, there is a barely a sign of any high-level security. It's a world away from the paranoia on display around the Houses of Parliament in London. In my home country the fear is such that the British government banned any form of protest or demonstration within half a mile of it. The idea of just walking into the main entrance is unthinkable. And rather than those photogenic red-coated guards the Queen has at Buckingham Palace, the British parliament is guarded by legions of police with assault rifles, and they're not the kind who like it when you photograph them or try to make them laugh.

So once again, I say bravo Belgium. No armed guards, no metal fences or razor wire, no ugly roadblocks (in some places they have huge flower pots to prevent vehicles from getting in), no displays of fear and paranoia. People are free to pass by, be they tourists, commuters or protestors. Long may it be this way.